Hermès Materials Explained - Togo, Clemence, Swift, Epsom

Leather is the most defining element of a Hermès bag. It profoundly affects the look, feel, durability, structure, and, most importantly, the investment value of every Birkin and Kelly. For collectors and investors, understanding these core materials is essential - it determines how well your bag ages, how much it sells for, and how it fits your overall portfolio.

Here is the complete breakdown of the four most iconic Hermès leathers.

1. Togo — The Most Requested Birkin Leather

Togo, made from calfskin, is the modern collector’s favorite. It strikes a perfect balance between structure and softness, making it the most universally demanded material.

Key Characteristics: Fine, raised grain; matte finish; scratch-resistant; lightweight; holds shape well without being overly stiff.

Why Investors Love It: Extremely durable and low maintenance, ideal for daily use, and beautifully showcases color depth.

Investment Value: Togo is the most requested leather on the resale market. Birkins in Togo - especially in the highly coveted 25cm and 30cm sizes - consistently hold retail value or appreciate instantly upon resale.

2. Clemence: Soft, Slouchy, Luxurious

Clemence is also derived from calfskin but offers a more relaxed, supple structure compared to Togo, resulting in a distinct, chic drape.

Key Characteristics: Larger, flatter grain; soft and supple feel; develops a beautiful slouch over time; heavier than Togo; rich, matte finish.

Why Investors Love It: The beautiful drape and rich texture feel exceptionally luxurious. It ages gracefully, offering a softer, more relaxed look.

Investment Value: While Clemence bags naturally lose some structure, they retain strong value, particularly in neutral and classic colors. The larger Kelly 32 and Birkin 35 in Clemence remain strong collector favorites.

3. Swift: Smooth, Vivid, Ultra-Soft

Swift is known for its smooth texture and remarkable color payoff, making it the preferred choice for bags meant to be statement pieces.

Key Characteristics: Minimal grain; very soft and buttery feel; beautifully reflects light; less scratch-resistant than textured leathers.

Why Investors Love It: Colors appear richer and more luminous, making it perfect for vibrant shades and pastels. It delivers an elegant, clean, polished look.

Investment Value: Swift bags in highly sought-after, seasonal colors (like Rose Sakura or Bubblegum) perform extremely well. Because Swift is more delicate, pieces kept in pristine, unworn condition command the highest resale premiums.

4. Epsom: Structured, Elegant, Modern

Epsom is an embossed leather with a rigid, lightly textured pattern. It is the go-to leather for highly structured bags, such as the Sellier Kelly.

Key Characteristics: Very lightweight; scratch-resistant; holds shape perfectly with a clean, crisp look; features a slight sheen finish.

Why Investors Love It: Its ability to maintain structure over many years is unmatched. It keeps corners sharp and is ideal for formal or polished styles, offering excellent durability.

Investment Value: Epsom has emerged as one of the strongest-performing Hermès leathers in the last five years. The Kelly 25 Sellier in Epsom is currently one of the most profitable bags on the secondary market due to its structural integrity and high demand.

Expert Recommendations: Which Leather Should You Choose?

Conclusion

Each Hermès leather possesses its own personality, purpose, and investment profile. Understanding these materials will help you choose the perfect bag—not just aesthetically, but as a robust addition to your financial portfolio.

At PreLuxe, every bag is inspected and authenticated with full material verification, ensuring you know exactly what exceptional asset you are investing in.